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aJMamial of 

WORK GARMENT 

(^Manufacture 

How to 
improve 
quality 
and reduce 
costs 



Union Special Machine Company 

CHICAGO. USA 




In presenting this loose leaf reference booklet we do so with the assurance 
that our readers will realize its highly technical value. 

The Union Special Machine Company prepared this work as a service to 
its' customers, and it is evident that it could not be accomplished without 
research and mechanical work involving great expense. 

In order to make this service permanent we have made provision for the 
addition of loose pages which will be sent to the holders of this booklet 
from time to time as additional data is compiled. The value of this ser- 
vice will be readily seen for it will positively keep the reader informed of 
the new machines and attachments which this company will introduce to 
the field. Also the new methods of manufacturing work garments and 
modern designs of the work garment itself. 

May we not suggest that this booklet be retained to enable us to keep 
you thoroughly informed of the very latest developments in the garment 
industry? 

UNION SPECIAL MACHINE COMPANY 

400 North Franklin Street 
CHICAGO, ILL. 

New York, N. Y., 65 Bleecker Street 

Philadelphia, Pa., 12th & Arch Streets 
Boston, Mass., 144 Kingston Street 
Cincinnati, Ohio, 229 East 6th Street 
St. Louis, Mo., 1127 Pine Street 
Utica, N. Y., 9 Blandma Street 

Rochester, N. Y., 36 St. Paul Street 
Amsterdam, N. Y. 13 Railroad Street 
Cohoes, N. Y., 5 I Mohawk Street 

Minneapolis, Minn., 324 South Fourth Avenue 
Johnson City, N. Y., 16 North Broad Street 
San Francisco, Calif., 682 Mission Street 

UNION SPECIAL MACHINE CORPORATION OF AMERICA 

87 Boulevard Sebastopol 

PARIS, FRANCE 



UNION SPECIAL MACHINE CO. OF CANADA, LTD. 

64 Temperance Street 

TORONTO, ONTARIO, CANADA 



5 



Copyright — 1921 

Union Special Machine Co. 

Manufacturers of 

Power Sewing Machines 
Sewing Room Engineers 



©CU62263 









6 



Index 

BACK BAND OVERALLS PAGE 8. 

OVERALL SUSPENDERS PAGE 40. 

HIGH BACK OVERALLS PAGE 44. 

TRIPLE STITCHED OVERALLS PAGE 46. 

OVERALL JACKETS PAGE 50. 

TRIPLE STITCHED JACKETS PAGE 60. 

COMBINATION WORK GARMENTS PAGE 64. 

TRIPLE STITCHED COMBINATION GARMENTS . . PAGE 72. 

CHILDRENS COMBINATION GARMENTS PAGE 74. 

KHAKI TROUSERS PAGE 81. 

GOVERNMENT TEST OF STITCHES PAGE 84. 

THE "DOUBLE LOCKED STITCH" PAGE 84. 

HOME OF UNION SPECIAL MACHINE CO PAGE 88. 

STANDARD TABLE OF GAUGES PAGE 45. 



"Watch Your Stitch!" 
"See That It Is Double Locked" 



Introduction 

In comparing the overall and other work garments of today 
with similar apparel of the past, it is obvious that the demands of the 
American workman for quality, fit, and attractiveness have been large- 
ly fulfilled. The men on the farms, in the engine cabs, in the shops 
and engaged in building construction are now wearing the product of 
efficiently conducted factories, where every conceivable means known 
is employed to turn out garments that satisfy. 

That the sewing machine deserves credit for a good portion of 
this goes without saying, but it is generally conceded that Union Special 
machines revolutionized the overall industry by doing away with the 
old bundle system. This enables each operator to remain continuous- 
ly on one operation, resulting in greater and better production. The 
use of Union Special sewing machines has increased rapidly and many 
machines that were designed to meet special operations have finally 
become perfected and standardized until today a list of sewing ma- 
chines stands ready to fill the overall manufacturer's every want for 
seams of strength and elasticity. 

In Union Special machines, the thread goes into the seam with 
all its strength and luster unimpaired. No chafing of the thread by 
passing many times through the eye of the needle before being finally 
drawn into the goods as is the case with all shuttle stitch machines. 

Users of Union Special machines realize their characteristic high 
speed and many other points in their favor set forth in this booklet. 

It is our intention to give a reliable treatise on the proper method 
to manufacture overalls and allied garments, giving the best machine 
specifications for each operation, whether Union Special make or not. 

The succeeding pages should be of vital interest to anyone en- 
gaged in the manufacture of work garments or to anyone contemplat- 
ing entering this industry. 




List of Operations on Back Band 
Bib Overalls 



1. 


Making fly. 


10. 


2. 


Button-holes in fly. 




3. 


Making front. 


11. 


4. 


Felling bib seam. 




5. 


Sewing on front band and 


12. 




attaching bibs. 


13. 


6. 


Hemming bib. 


14. 


7. 


Stitching hip and rule pock- 


15. 




ets to back. 


16. 


8. 


Felling back seam. 


17. 


9. 


Sewing on back band. 





Facing sides and attaching 
ticket. 

Felling inside and outside 
seams of legs. 

Hemming bottoms. 

Sewing button-holes. 

Tacking- 

Attaching buttons. 

Trimming loose threads. 

Final inspection and fold- 
ing. 



10 



CUTTING ROOM. 



\ 






■ 


- 


rRONT 




Bnchr 


i. MatriNG rur 


7. STITCHING HIP f^oCHTTS 


Z. BUTTON HOLES /n rur* 


3. TELLING BfiCK 5EGM 


3.MBH-/NG rRONT 


3. STITCHING ON BhCIT BfiND 


4-. TELLING BIB ^SEIftM 


10. F-fiCING SIDES 


5. STITCHING IN TJPONT 3/9NJ} 




G.HEMMIHG BIB 






' 











BODr Or OVETRrlLL 



II. TELLING IN* OUT SEfihIS 



12. HEMMING BOTTOMS 



13. BUTTON HOLES 



14. T/9C/T/NG 



15. BUTTONS 



lb. TRIMMING LOOSE THREADS 



17. T/NfiL INSPECT/ON 



chart or 

OP£TRfiT/ONS rOR 
BfiCrt- Br?ND BIJB 
OV£Tf?rlL.L.S. 




11 



A High Grade Overall 



12 



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Table 



A 

A,B,C, 
D,E,F, 
F 



F,G 



G,H, 
H.I.J 



J 

J,K 

K,L,M 

M.N.O 

O 

P 

P,Q 



Description of Layout For Back 
Band Overalls 

Required Production — 500 Dozen Daily 

Actual Production — 630 Dozen Daily 

8 hour day. 



Operation 
Number 



9 
10 

1 1 
12 
13 

14 
15 



Description of 
Operation 



Machines Av. Daily Number 

Recommended Production of 

Each Mach. Machines 



Making fly 



Union Special 320 doz 

6500 

Fly button-holes Button-hole 125 
Making fronts Shuttle Stitch 8 



Felling Bib Seam 



Stitching on 
front band and 
joining bibs 
Hemming bib 
Stitching on 2 
hip pockets and 
1 rule pocket 
Felling back 
seam 

Stitching on 
Back Band 
Hemming sides 
and sewing on 
ticket 

Felling inside 
and outside leg 
Hemming leg 
bottoms 
Sewing button- 
holes 
Tacking 
Attaching but- 
tons 



Union Special 

12100, 31500 
7500, 17100 
Union Special 
16500, 16800 

Shuttle Stitch 
Union Special 
8300 

Union Special 
7500, 12100, 
17100, 31500 
Union Special 
16500, 16800 

Shuttle Stitch 



Union Special 
12100, 31500 

Union Special 

11500 
Button-hole 

Tacking 

Button 

machine 



210 
90 



37 
20 



05 

80 
20 

17 
70 
63 

57 
90 



5 

78 



17 
31 



4 
30 

37 

9 

10 

11 



14 




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x 

\ 



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25 on 

ftf o 
DC 

^, 

S3 



15 



Description of Layout for Back 
Band Bib Overalls 

Required Production — 100 doz. Daily 
Actual Production — 125 doz. Daily 



8 Hour Day. 



Table Operation 



Description 



Machine Used 



A 1 and 6 Making fly 

Hemming bib 

A 2 Fly button-holes 

A,B,C 3 Making fronts 

C 4 and 8 Felling bib seam 

Felling back 
seam 

C,D 5 and 9 Stitching on 

front band 
Stitching on back 
band 

D 7 Stitching on hip 

and rule pockets 

E 1 Hemming side 

and sewing 
ticket 

E,F 1 1 Felling inside 

and outside 
seam 

F 1 2 Hemming leg 

bottoms 

G 1 3 Sewing button- 

holes 

G 1 4 Tacking 

1 5 Attaching but- 

tons 



Union Special Class 6500 
Union Special Class 6500 
Button-hole Machine 
Shuttle stitch machine 
Union Special Classes 1 2 I 00, 

31500, 7500, and 17100. 

Union Special 16500, 16800, 
Union Special 16500, 16800 
Union Special 8300 
Shuttle Stitch 

Union Special Classes 1 2 1 00, 
and 31500. 

Union Special 1 1 500 

Button-hole 

Tacking 

Button machine. 



GENERAL DESCRIPTION 

Due to the small capacity of this sewing room, the layout differs 
greatly from that of larger production, in that there is need for doubl- 
ing up on many operations. 

When one machine working on a certain operation can produce 
the required amount in less than a day, it is used for an operation that 
requires the same machine. In this manner no machine is allowed to 
stand idle. 

This layout is intended to show the contractors' sewing room, 
i. e., one where the work is sent already cut, and it is only a question 
of sewing and returning the work to the manufacturer. 



16 

The Sewing Room of an Overall Factory 

The Layout 

The reader will find as he studies the model layout on page 1 2 
that it is planned from the chart of operations on page 1 0, and that 
this chart is, of course, the result of a thorough analysis of the overall 
itself, see page 8. Thus, as a result of an analytical study of the 
product, we arrive at the ideal layout of tables and machines to give 
maximum production with as little overhead expense as possible. In 
a sewing room for the production we show here, hundreds of operators 
are found, as many as 78 working on the same operation. These oper- 
ators with their machines, are so placed that the first operation begins 
nearest the source of the material to be worked upon, the cutting 
room; the second operation is done on the adjacent tables, the third 
next, and so on, until the overall emerges from the sewing room ready 
for shipment. 

The layout for a sewing room for overalls shown on page 1 2 in- 
dicates conservation of floor space, and the retracing of operations is 
reduced to the minimum. 

Manufacturers differ as to the size of a bundle in the making of 
overalls, some contending that a greater production can be obtained 
by having as many as 5 dozen to a bundle. However, this matter de- 
pends entirely on the system employed although as a rule the bundle 
does not consist of more than one or two dozen. 

There are two systems in general use for moving work through 
the sewing room: The rack system and the truck system, or the com- 
bination of these systems. 

Truck System 

The truck system, indicated in the layout on page 1 2, is consid- 
ered by some the ideal one. These trucks travel from the cutting 
room with the bundles and stop at the first table where operators pro- 
ceed with the first operation, being careful to lay the parts in the 
bundle when through sewing, so that the next operator will automatic- 
ally get the parts in order. The careful arranging of parts in the bun- 
dle after each operation is important. It has meant in many cases a 
5 ' I increase in production. 

After the first operation is accomplished the bundles are placed 
on the truck and it proceeds to the next operator. 

In other words, these trucks might be imagined as a man going 
down the room, stopping at each operation, getting the operation 
done, proceeding to the next operation, and continuing in this way un- 
til he leaves the room with the finished overalls. 

In case congestion occurs at any operation, due to slackening up 
of the operator, this is immediately noticed by the man in charge of 
the trucks and he dispatches his men to that spot where they assist the 
operators in handling the parts, thus relieving the congestion. Each 
truck is numbered and a schedule is kept on a blackboard by the man 
in charge of the trucks. 



17 



Rack System 

The rack system consists of the use of wooden racks or bins 
located conveniently in relation to the sewing tables. These racks 
located as shown in the layout for 1 00 dozen on page 1 4 will permit 
the bundles automatically to work their way to the stock room. Upon 
completion of each operation the work is deposited in a bin nearer 
the finishing end of the sewing room, each bin being numbered to cor- 
respond to the operation to be performed next. 

Thus the first bin will contain bundles for the first operation 
which, after completion of this first operation, are deposited in the 
next bin or No. 2. 

It will be obvious that in this manner each bin should contain 
about the same number of bundles, and this will permit the forelady 
to ascertain where any slackening up on the operators part occurs. 

The first bin should be emptied of the entire cut before the new 
cut is delivered as this tends to balance the sizes coming through the 
sewing room, giving all operators a variety instead of allowing some 
operators to pick out all the smallest sizes. 

The bins should be arranged to accommodate maximum produc- 
tion of the total number of machines. 

With the bins arranged as shown on page 1 4 and where bundles 
contain only one dozen, an opportunity is afforded the operator to get 
sufficient exercise by walking to the bin after each operation. This 
periodical walk keeps her freshened for the entire working period. 

Sewing Rooms On Separate Floors 

Where the sewing room is located on separate floors the work 
is started on the top floor, the cutting room being adjacent. When 
the last operation on each floor is accomplished, the bundles are sent 
through a chute into the first bin on the floor below. An electric bell 
notifies the room above to send down another cut. 

In this way the elevator is used only for bringing up raw ma- 
terial, all work in process being brought back to stock room by 
means of chutes. Where sewing rooms are located on floors above 
each other, trucks are hardly advisable. The truck system works 
best where the sewing room is on one large floor, and where a large 
production is required. 



18 



Coupon Cost Method 



The most simple and efficient method for keeping costs in the 
garment industry is known as the Coupon System. 

The accompanying illustration shows a typical tag with its de- 
tachable coupons, indicated by the perforated lines. 

In the tag shown, all operations are accounted for but in many 
cases more than one tag with its operations are used for each com- 
plete bundle. 

The first operator sews the tag which is made of fairly tough 
paper, with one line of stitching to a conspicuous place on the first 
garment of the bundle, and then proceeds with the first operation on 
the entire bundle. After completion of this operation the operator 
tears off a coupon and inserts her clock number in the space pro- 
vided for it. 

The operator is paid weekly and only upon presentation of these 
coupons. To provide a safe place for these coupons, a book of about 
four pages is used by each operator. This book is approximately 
10x4 inches and the pages are provided with slits or pockets for the 
orderly insertion of coupons. 

All operations are done at the rate of a certain predetermined 
amount. Therefore it is obvious that the labor cost of the bundle, 
which each tag and its coupons represents, can be very easily ascer- 
tained by merely adding the costs of each operation on the bundle. 

When all the operations are completed, the coupons, although 
detached, can easily be identified with the remaining stub by the op- 
eration number, cut number, bundle number and operator's number, 
and therefore there is little chance of the existence of more coupons 
than bundles, as this would be very readily detected in the cost de- 
partment. 

From the above, it will be seen that the coupon tag serves both 
employer and employee, the former by a rigid check on all work per- 
formed, the amount to be paid for labor, checked by production, and 
the operator has a coupon for every operation performed on a bundle. 

Some manufacturers use a card with' smaller coupons to be 
clipped off by use of scissors, and instead of stitching tag to garment, 
it is often attached to the bundle in the cutting room by looping on 
the same string that ties the bundle. 



19 



XYZ Company 


OPERATORS NU(V\BER MOST 
appear on Coupon & sTuB 


Cot rso. 3f 


BUNDLE NO X/ 


Size J(,~3i 


LOT NO. /?<?<). 


17. OP'R.No Tf 


I6.0PR No. "?io 


15. ■• •■ W 


\A -50 


\3. - " ?C 


12 " W 


I 1 15 


lo, ■- 33 


9. .. •• 70 


8. •• ■■ 3^ 


1 W 


e>. ■• •• / 


5 /to 


4. •■ •■ n 


3. - /0 


z ^o 


\JJ & EolD 
CUT Mo 5t 
Bundle No -^ 
op'r. iso. *J-y 


r /T>| TRIM 
VJ3/ THREADS 
.CUT No. 3? 
BUNDLE No 2/ 

1 OP'R NO 3^ 


/f>\ Buttons 

Cut no 3¥ 
Bundle no 2/ 

OP'R NO *Jl 


M4) TACKINQ 

ICUT NO 5^ 
1 BUNDLE .No.*' 
i OP'R NO jV 


/yz\ BUTTON 

yjy HOLES 

Cut no 3^ 
Bundle no */ 

OP'R NO. 2(? 


,/j^v HEN, 

|V ^-/ BOTTOMS 

, CUT NO 3V 

■ BJNPLE NO */, 

OP'R NO 0/ 


/Tj\ FELL IN & 
UU OUT SEAMb 

CUT NO 5^ 
BUNDLE NO.*' 
OP R NO lS 


,/JJN FACE smE 
| MVJ / | TICKET ON 

'CUT NO 3^ 
1 BUNDLE NO 27 
1 OP'R NO 53 


y s 2^ band 

CUT NO. Vf 

Bundle no*' 
OP'R NO. 7o 


[ /q\ FELL BACK 
\OJ 5EAM 
■ CUT NO 3V 
, BUNDLE NO */ 
, OP'R NO- ^y 


f^j\ HIP^RULE 
\Ss POCKETS 

COT no yj 

BU N DLE N0 7) 

op'r n o vy 


!(6) MENi 

iV_y Bib v 

1 CUT INI O • >7 
•JBUMDLE NO 2-/ 
1 OP'R NIO / 


/£\ FRONT 

vi/ band 

CUT N o 3V 

BONOLE MO. 2-' 
OP'F? NO. 'V 


l(2) FELL BIB 

'V / SEAM 

| CUT NO . -2V 
I BUNDLE NO 2-/ 
1 OP'R NO .23 


/7\ MAKIKiq 
PJ FROMT" 

CUT MO >T 
BUNDLE NO *' 
O P' R • N O /O 


!/^\ FLY Button 
\\£J HOLES 
•cut mo 3V 
( Bondle no ■ J/ 
i OP'R NO fO 



20 

General Notes on Equipment For 
Sewing Room 

The sewing room is often located on the top floor of the building 
with the cutting room adjacent, for both require the best of light. 

If a new building is contemplated, it is advised that a "saw- 
tooth" roof construction be incorporated in the plans. This type 
of roof has two features that are a positive stimulant for greater 
production: namely, proper ventilation and as much daylight as pos- 
sible. As shown in the figure, this is a very simple construction and 
while it costs more than a flat roof, this item is compensated for in 
the long run by less costly light bills, good air, etc. Incidentally, the 
currents of air have a tendency to go upward, thus carrying the fine 
lint off the floor and also away from the intricate mechanism of the 
machines. 

Illumination 



As shown in the figure the day- 
light comes from the north and 
thus prevents the sunlight from 
shining in the eyes of the opera- 
tors, an advantage over the ordi- 
nary skylight. However, sky- 
lights installed in an old building -C 
are the proper thing inasmuch as 
to install a saw-tooth roof would 
mean an entire new roof. The 
saw-tooth roof is recommended 
for a new building only. 

Artificial illumination is, of 
course, necessary at times and the 
ideal arrangement is the over- 
head indirect lighting with white 
walls, etc. Where this cannot be 
had, it is recommended that each 
operator have an individual ad- 
justable light. 



CLASS WINDOWS 




*•» K. 



Welfare 

It is not intended to go into the matter of welfare to any great 
length here but it is certain that rest rooms in a large factory em- 
ploying young women are necessary and likewise the first aid station 
with a nurse in attendance. This always inspires confidence in the 
employees. For those employees who cannot reach their homes for 
luncheon, a cafeteria will be found advantageous. 



21 

Description of Operations and Equipment 
for Back Band Bib Overalls 

Making Overall Fly (Operation No. 1) 

Standard Equipment: UNION SPECIAL Machine Style 65l>0 H. 
Folder, 23182 D. 
Presser Foot, 642 7 B. 
Feed Dog, 9705. 
Throat Plate, 9724 B. 

Thread recommended, 3 cord 24 glazed in needle; 3 cord 36 
soft in looper. 

Number of stitches to the inch, 9. 
Average production per hour, 40 dozen. 

Fly Button Holes (Operation No. 2) 

Standard Equipment: Button-hole Machine. 
Average production per hour, 1 5 dozen. 

M iking Fronts For Bib Overalls (Operation No. 3) 

This operation consists of making and closing front pockets, com- 
bination pocket on bib, make and join fork to fly; stitch box at top 
end of fly, make and sew in watch pockets, joining fronts together. 

Standard Equipment: Single Needle Shuttle Stitch Machine. 

Thread Recommended, 3 cord, 24 glazed in needle, 3 cord, 24 
soft in bobbin. 

Number of stitches to the inch, 9. 

Average production per hour, 1 dozen. 




\ 




Union Special Machine 6500 



22 




Note: In case it is desired to finish pockets in the manner shown 
above, this is done in a separate operation. 

Standard Equipment: UNION SPECIAL Machine Style 
15400Q. 

Presser Foot, 1 542 7 G. 

Feed Dog, 15405 W. 

Throat Plate, 1 5424 J. 

Thread recommended, 3 cord 60 silk finish in needle, 2 cord 50 
soft finish in looper. 

Number of stitches to the inch, 1 1 . 

Average production per hour, 9 dozen. 




Union Special Machine 15400 Q 

Felling Bibs (Operation No. 4) 

This operation consists of felling and stitching together the two 
halves of the bib. 

The following helpful hints are recommended as an aid to the 
operator: 

To obtain the highest possible production on felling bibs for 
overalls, it is necessary to learn to hold the work properly. The edges 
to be felled should be held in the left hand, the under ply between the 
second finger and the thumb, allowing the edge to be even with the 
top of the second finger, and to slide between the finger and the 
thumb, the finger holding the material against the under scroll of 
the folder, and at the same time pressing the material against the fold- 



23 

er, so as to retard the material. The upper ply is held between the 
first and second fingers of the left hand and should be allowed to 
slide through the fingers freely. 

Standard Equipment: UNION SPECIAL Machine Style 
12100 B-5. 

Folder, 601-5-7-64. 

Presser Foot, 12120 E-5. 

Thread recommended, 3 
soft in looper. 

Number of stitches to the inch, 9. 

Average production per hour, 26 dozen 



. Feed Dog, 12105 E-5. 
Throat Plate, 12124 E-5. 
cord, 24 glazed in needle; 3 cord, 36 




Union Special Machine Class 12100 

Note: Felling the bib seam can also be done very efficiently on 
a Flat Bed machine, giving the same high grade results. 

Standard Equipment: UNION SPECIAL Two Needle Machine 
Style ?500 B-5. 

See page 30 for illustration of machine. 

Folder, 600-5-7-64. Feed Dog, 7505. 

Presser Foot, 198 A-5. Throat Plate, 7524 B-5. 

Thread recommended, 3 cord, 24 glazed in needle, 3 cord, 36 
soft in looper. 

Number of stitches to the inch, 9. 

Average production per hour, 26 dozen. 

Note: 4 and 4'/? gauge can also be had if desired. See Stand- 
ard Table on page 45. 



24 




Felled Seam as Seen Through Magnifying Glass 

Stitching on Front Band and Joining Bib to Overall 
(Operation No. 5) 

This operation consists of stitching a band to the front of over- 
all and at the same time attaching bib. 

The following helpful hints are recommended as an aid to the 
operator: 

The collapsible folder is used to prevent bulkiness at the sides 
of overalls and instead of turning in both the side of the bib and the 
end of the band, the operation should be done as follows: 

In starting the work at the side, lower folding device is col- 
lapsed or drawn together sufficiently to remove the edges of band 
passing through the folding device from a point outside of the needles 
to a point inside the needles; thus preventing the needle from stitching 
the lower strap until a point is reached opposite the edge of the 
overall. 

This leaves stitched only the edge of the bib which protrudes be- 
yond the side of the overall and which is necessary for finishing pur- 
poses. That portion of the strap beyond the sides of the overall can 
then be cut with a pair of shears, leaving only the side of the bib to 



25 

finish with machines, and only six thicknesses of material at the in- 
turned portion of the bib to be stitched through instead of twelve 
were this not done, making it easy to button-hole. The same thing 
occurs on the opposite side. When the operator reaches the edge 
of the overall, she collapses the folder by pressing the knee treadle 
which controls the collapsing mechanism removing the edge of the 
band from the path of the needles, and then continues the sewing 
operation to the extreme side of the overall. The machine is not 
stopped or slowed down, as the collapsing is done without loss of 
time. 




Style 16500 B with Puller Fitted for Joining Bibs to Overalls 

Standard Equipment: UNION SPECIAL Machine Style 
16500 B-80 gauge equipped wih pulling mechanism. 

Note: If desired, 88 and 96 gauge machines and parts can be 
had. 

Collapsible Folder for turning edge of band, 23324 K-80. 

Folder for turning edge of bib, 23325 E-96-3-16. 

Presser Foot, 16220 B-80. 

Guide for body of overall, 23326 A. 

Feed Dog, 16505-88. 

Throat Plate, 16224-80. 



FRONT* 



BI& 



INSIDE BAND 



Thread recommended, 3 
cord, 24 glazed in needle, 3 
cord, 36 soft in looper. 

Number of stitches to the 
inch, 9. 

Average production per 
hour, 1 1 dozen. 



26 



iuinii 

Mt Hill H 
i HIU11 








ifsiiiiiiiiiiiiiii 






^f llllf Illlil fIi illll 


iilSIP'l"!II l v "" - ■ 1111 







Sewing Front Band and Attaching bibs to Overalls 
with four rows of stitching 

The Union Special Machine Company has perfected a machine 
to do this operation with four needles. 

The above photograph shows a garment with band and bib at- 
tached in this manner. 

Standard Equipment: UNION SPECIAL Machine Style 
1 6800 Z-4- 1 6-64- 1 6, equipped with pulling mechanism. 

Collapsible Folder for turning edge of band, 23324 K-96. 

Folder for turning edge of bib, 23325 E-96-3-16. 

Presser Foot, 16834 D- 1 6-64-16. 

Guide for body of overall, 23326 A. 



F RONT 



BIB 



INSIDE BAND 



Feed Dog, 1 No. 16805 B. 2 No. 16805 D- 16. 

Throat Plate, 1 6844 K- 1 6-64- 1 6. 

Thread recommended, 3 cord, 24 glazed in needle, 3 cord, 36 
soft in looper. 

Number of stitches to the inch, 9. 

Average production per hour, 1 1 dozen. 




27 



28 





29 

An ideal table arrangement is shown in the photographs on op- 
posite page. The lower picture shows not less than 1 overall fronts 
on the table and the remaining fronts, or the balance of the bundle 
of two dozen, lying to the left of the operator, and still plenty of room. 

Hemming Bibs (Operation No. 6) 

Standard Equipment: Single Needle Shuttle Stitch Machine. 

Thread recommended, 3 cord, 24 glazed in needle, 3 cord, 24 
soft in bobbin. 

Number of stitches to the inch, 9. 

Average production per hour, 4Yl dozen. 

Stitching on Hip and Rule Pockets for Bib Overalls 
(Operation No. 7) 

The following helpful hints are recommended as an aid to the 
operator: 

The operation is started on the upper right hand corner of the 
pocket. The material is turned downwardly and inwardly by the op- 
erator and is guided by her finger. The bar on the edge of the presser 
foot is used as a guide for the edge of the pocket. An experienced 
operator will stitch around the side and bottom of the pocket, in- 
cluding the corners without stopping. 

Standard Equipment: UNION SPECIAL Machine Style 
8300 Z-4. 

Presser Foot, 8220 B-4. 

Feed Dog, 7205 A. 

Throat Plate, 8224-4. 

Thread recommended, 3 cord, 24 glazed in needle, 3 cord, 36 
soft in looper. 

Number of stitches to the inch, 9. 

Average production per hour, 2 Yl dozen. 

Felling Back Seams (Operation No. 8) 

This operation consists of felling and stitching with two rows 
of stitches, the back or seat seam. 

Note: For three rows of stitches see page 48. 

The same helpful hints are recommended as for operation No. 4. 

For the standard equipment, thread recommended, and number 
of stitches per inch for this operation, see operation No. 4, page 23. 

Average production per hour, 1 3 dozen. 



30 




Union Special Machine 7500 

Used for operations Nos. 4 and 8 on overalls — felling bibs, seat 
seams, etc. 

Stitching on Single Piece Back Band to Bib Overalls 
(Operation No. 9) 

This operation consists of attaching a strip or band to the top 
of the back at the same height as front band. 
See page 24 for helpful hints. 

Standard Equipment: UNION SPECIAL Two Needle Machine 
Style 16500 D-80 gauge, equipped with pulling mechanism. 

Note: If desired, 88 and 96 gauge machines and parts can be 
had. 

Collapsible Folder, 23360 C-1%. 
N Or Noncollapsible Folder, 23360 B- 1 % 
)Presser Foot, 16220 B-80. 
^ Guide, 23300 A. 
Feed Dog, 16505-88. 
Throat Plate, 16224-80. 

Thread recommended, 3 cord, 24 glazed in needle, 3 cord, 36 
soft in looper. 

Number of stitches to the inch, 9. 
Average production per hour, 22 dozen. 



backC — 



.SINGLE PIECE ©AND 



31 




Union Special Machine Class 16500 




Photograph of Single Piece Back Band 



32 



Sewing Back Bands with Four 
Rows of Stitching 

Standard Equipment: UNION SPECIAL Machine Style 
1 6800 Z-4-1 6-64-16, equipped with pulling mechanism. 

Top Folder, 23329 D. 

Bottom Folder, 23324 K-96. 

Presser Foot, 16834 D- 16-64- 16. . 

Feed Dogs, 1 No. 16805 B. 2 No. 16805 D-16. 

Throat Plate, 1 6844 K- 1 6-64- 1 6. 

Thread recommended, 3 cord, 24 glazed in needle, 3 cord, 36 
soft in looper. 

Number of stitches to the inch, 9. 

Average production per hour, 22 dozen. 

Stitching and Folding Two Piece Back 
Band to Bib Overalls 

Standard Equipment: UNION SPECIAL Machine Style 
16500 Z-80, equipped with pulling, mechanism. 

Note: If desired, 88 and 96 gauge machines and parts can be 
had. 

Collapsible Folder for under strip, 23324 K-80. 

Folder for upper strip, 23328 H-80. 

Presser Foot, 16220B-80. 

Guide, 23326. 

Feed Dog, 16505-88. 



OUTSIDE BAND 
BACK CQIZ || ) 

INSIDE BANE 



33 



Throat Plate, 16224-80. 

Thread recommended, 3 cord, 24 glazed in needle, 3 cord, 36 
soft in looper. 

Number of stitches to the inch, 9. 

Average production per hour, 22 dozen. 



Hemming Sides of Back Band Overalls (Operation No. 10) 

This operation consists of facing the sides of the overall at 
pockets, and attaching ticket. 

Standard Equipment: Single Needle Shuttle Stitch Machine. 

Thread recommended, 3 cord, 24 glazed in needle, 3 cord, 24 
soft in bobbin. 

Number of stitches to the inch, 9. 

Average production per hour, 2 '/2 dozen. 



Felling In and Out Seams (Operation No. 11) 

This operation consists of felling and stitching with two rows 
of stitches the inside and outside of legs. 

Note: For three rows of stitches see page 48. 

Standard Equipment: UNION SPECIAL Two Needle Machine 
Style 12100 B-5 gauge. 

For illustration of this machine see page 23. 

Folder, 601-5-7-64. 

Presser Foot, 12120 E-5. 

Feed Dog, 12105 E-5. 

Throat Plate, 12124 E-5. 

Thread recommended, 3 cord, 24 glazed in needle, 3 cord 36 
soft in looper. 

Number of stitches to the inch, 9. 

Average production per hour, 2 J/4 dozen. 



34 



A page of typical band seam constructions for overalls 



BACK 



INSIDE BAND I 

Folders 23329 D and 23324 K 







BACK 














) 






) 






INSIDE BAND 







Folders 23329 D and 23324 K 



c 



OUTSIDE BAND 



J 



BACK 

V V 

Folders 23328 H and 23329 B 



OUTSIDE BAND 



BACK 

Folders 23328 H and 23329 B 



BACK 



OUTSIDE BAND 



-> BACJO 



INSIDE BAND 
Folders 23328 H and 23324 K 



OUTSIDE BAND 



INSIDE BAND 

Folders 23328 H and 23324 K 



backC 



SINQLE PIECE BAND 

y 

Folder 23360 C or 23360 B 



D 



dACKj 



SINGLE PIECE BA.NC 

Folder 23360 B 



) 



1 


outside: band 








3 BIB 










FRONT 









OUTSIDE BAND 














— 'b 












) 




1 


FRONT 







Folders 23328 H and 23329 B 



Folders 23328 H and 23329 B 



FRONT* 



BIB 



INSIDE BAND 



F RONT' 



BIB 



Folders 23325 E and 23324 K 



INSIDE BAND 
Folders 23325 E and 23324 K 



35 



A page of standard folders used in making overall: 




600 




23325 E 




23367 





23324 K 



23328 H 




Bottom View of Single Piece Back Band Folder, Illustrating 
Collapsible Feature 

23360 C 



36 




37 
Hemming Bottoms (Operation No. 12) 

Standard Equipment: UNION SPECIAL Single Needle Machine 
Style I 1500 G-^ inch. 

Hemmer, 23364. 

Presser Foot, 1 1 520 H-%. 

Feed Dog, 11505 H. 

Throat Plate, 1 1 524 H. 

Thread recommended, 3 cord, 24 glazed in needle, 3 cord, 36 
soft in looper. 

Number of stitches to the inch, 9. 

Average production per hour, 9 dozen. 




Union Special Machine Class 11500, for Hemming Bottoms 

of Overalls 



38 




Actual Photograph of Hemmed Bottom 

BUTTON-HOLES (Operation No. 13) 

Standard Equipment: Button-hole machine. 
See operation No. 2, page 2 1 , for fly button-holes. 
Average production per hour, 8 dozen. 

Tacking (Operation No. 14) 

Standard Equipment: Tacking Machine. 
Average production per hour, 7 dozen. 

Attaching Buttons (Operation No. 15) 

Standard Equipment: Button Machine. 
Average production per hour, 1 1 J/4 dozen. 



40 




List of Operations on Suspenders for 
back band Overalls 



1. Stitching shoulder straps 7. Finishing raw edge of but- 

2. Stitching suspender loops ton-hole tabs 

3. Cross cutting shoulder 8. Sewing button-holes 
straps 9. Barring 

4. Cutting elastic 10. Tacking free end of suspen- 

5. Attaching buckles der loop 

6. Attaching metal loops 11. Inspection 



41 

Making Suspenders for Back Band Overalls 

The blue denim in all weights is supplied in 28 inch widths. 
Shoulder straps are cut 3 15-16 inch wide and finished to 1^4 inch 
wide. Quite often the bolt of cloth is too narrow to permit the cut- 
ting of seven full size strips. When this occurs the narrow strip is cut 
up for suspender loops. These loops are cut Y& inch wide and the 
narrow strip usually furnishes five strips for suspender loops. 

A machine for splitting cloth into widths for this operation can 
be had on the market which will cut and roll the strips in one opera- 
tion and which has a capacity of several thousand dozen daily. 

Stitching Shoulder Straps (Operation No. 1) 

These machines are either run singly or as many as three simul- 
taneously, one operator running all three machines, using a special de- 
vice which is connected with the transmitters, for control. 

Standard Equipment: UNION SPECIAL Two Needle Machine 
Style 16500 Z- 104, equipped with pulling mechanism. 

Folder, K-30822. Feed Dog, 16250-96. 

Presser Foot, 16527 C- 104. Throat Plate, 16224-104. 

Thread recommended, 3 cord, 40 silk finish in needle, 2 cord, 
50 soft finish in looper. 

Number of stitches to the inch, 12. 

Average production per hour for each machine, 430 yards. 




Union Special Machine 6900 H 



42 

Stitching Suspender Loops (Operation No. 2) 

The machine for stitching suspender loops can be run simultane- 
ously with the shoulder strap machines, thus requiring only one oper- 
ator for as many as four machines if desired. 

Standard Equipment: UNION SPECIAL Machine Style 
6900 H-l 6. 

See page 4 1 for illustration 

Folder, 23254 L. 

Presser Foot, 6920 A- 16. 

Feed Dog, 6905 H-l 6. 

Throat Plate, 6924 H-l 6. 

Thread recommended, 3 cord, 40 silk finish in needle, 2 cord, 50 
soft finish in looper. 

Average production per hour for each machine, 600 yards. 

Cross Cutting Shoulder Straps (Operation No. 3) 

This operation consists of cutting the shoulder straps, button hole 
tabs, and suspender loops to the proper length. There is a machine 
on the market adjustable to any length and which has the capacity of 
several thousand dozen daily. 

Cutting Elastic (Operation No. 4) 

This operation consists of using a small, electric, circular knife 
machine which is attached to the table. The operator guides the work 
through the machine, cutting the elastic at the mark woven or printed 
thereon for that purpose. This machine is capable of cutting 1500 
dozen daily. 

Attaching Buckles (Operation No. 5) 

The machine for this operation is installed with a wooden hopper 
holding the buckles. This hopper is set in rear of the machine and 
the open end is inclined so that the buckles are fed to fall on the cloth 
plate, making it handy for the operator, and preventing the buckles 
from spreading over the table. 

Standard Equipment: UNION SPECIAL Machine Style 
9900 Z. 

Feed Dog, 9905. 
Throat Plate, 9928 E. 
Presser Foot, 9920. 

Thread recommended, 3 cord, 40 silk finish in needle, 2 cord, 50 
soft finish in looper. 

Average production per hour, 2 Yl dozen pair. 

Attaching Metal Loops (Operation No. 6) 

This operation consists of inserting the free end of suspender 
strap through the buckle. This is a hand operation. 




Union Special Machine Class 9900 for Attaching Buckles 

Finishing Raw Edge of Button-Hole Tabs (Operation No. 7) 

Standard Equipment: UNION SPECIAL Machine Style 
15400Z (3 thread stitch). 

Preaser Foot, 1 5424 J. 

Throat Plate, I 5420 A. 

Feed Dog, 15405 W. 

Thread recommended, 3 cord, 40 silk finish in needle, 2 cord, 40 
soft finish in looper. 

Average production per hour, 32 dozen pair. 

Sewing Button-Holes (Operation No. 8) 

Standard Equipment Button-hole Machine. 
Average production per hour, 650 holes. 

Barring (Operation No. 9) 

This operation consists of attaching button-hole tab to the elastic 
and then attaching the other end of the elastic and the suspender loop 
to the shoulder strap. 

Standard Equipment: UNION SPECIAL Machine Style 
15500Z (3 thread stitch). 

Presser Foot, I 5520 G. 

Feed Dog, 15505 C. 

Throat Plate, 1 5 528 K. 

Thread recommended, 3 cord, 40 silk finish in needle, 2 cord, 
40 soft finish in looper. 

Average production per hour, 1 dozen pair. 

Tacking Free End of Suspender Loop ( Operation No. 10) 

Standard Equipment: Tacking Machine. 
Average production per hour, 38 dozen pair. 



44 




High Back Overalls 



High back overalls are made exactly the same as back band 
overalls with the exception that the suspenders are attached to the 
back, shown in the accompanying figure. 



45 

List of Operations on High Back Overall. 



1. 


Making fly 


9. 


Felling in and out seams 


2. 


Sewing fly button-holes 


10. 


Hemming bottoms 


3. 


Making front 


11. 


Sewing button-holes 


4. 


Felling hib seam 


12. 


Tacking 


5. 


Sewing on front band and 


13. 


Attaching buttons 




attaching bibs 


14. 


Making and attaching sus- 


6. 


Hemming bib 




penders, hemming sides 


7. 


Stitching hip and rule pock- 




and sewing on ticket 




ets to back 


15. 


Trimming loose threads 


8. 


Felling back seam 


16. 


Final inspection and folding 



It will be noted that the operations for a High Back Bib Overall 
are the same as for a Back Band Bib Overall with the exception of 
operation No. 1 4. Hence it will only be necessary to describe this 
operation. 

Making and Attaching Suspenders, Hemming Sides of 
back and Sewing on Tickets ^operation No. 14) 

Standard Equipment: Single Needle Shuttle Stitch Machine. 

Thread recommended, 3 cord, 24 glazed in needle, 3 cord 24 
soft in bobbin. 

Number of stitches to the inch, 9. 

Average production per hour, 1 dozen. 

Note: We are specifying standard gauges only. Any other gauge 
desired can be obtained; all that is needed is to notify us of your re- 
quirements. 

Standard Table of Gauges 

No. 1 gauge 3-32 inch. No. 4 J/2 gauge J4 inch. 

No. 2 gauge J/g inch. No. 5 gauge 9-32 inch. 

No. 3 gauge 5-32 inch. No. 5 Vi gauge % inch. 

No. 4 gauge 3-16 inch. No. 6 gauge 13-32 inch. 

For any gauge not shown in above table the following rule will 

prevail : 

Specify Gauges by 64ths of an inch 

For example: — If it is desired to have Yi-'mch space between 
stitches, the number of the gauge would correspond to the number of 
the 64ths or 32. 

Likewise %-inch width would be 48 gauge. 



46 

Triple Stitched Overalls 

The Union Special Machine Co. has perfected 
and has in successful operation three needle ma- 
chines for stitching the principal seams of overalls 
with three rows of stitches, giving greater strength, 
elasticity and a better appearance than the two rows 
of stitching. Garments sewed with these machines 
stand up better in laundering, and retain a neat, 
smooth finish until discarded, due to the fact that 
the triple stitched seam will not pucker. The center 
or third row of stitching prevents the puckering or 
lifting of the fabric between the two outside rows of 
stitching. 

The puckered garment is not only unsightly 
but it is weak as well, for the high spots of the 
puckered seam soon wear down and with it the 
stitching, resulting in the opened seam. 

That the three stitched seam requires more 
thread in lineal feet goes without saying, but this 
small increase in consumption of thread is more 
than offset by the greater demand for triple stitched 
product. 

The resulting seam of a three needle machine 
is flat and straight and twisted overall legs are au- 
tomatically eliminated by use of the machines de- 
scribed below. 

There is no more mechanical attendance nec- 
essary in a three needle machine than in a two nee- 
dle machine. 

These machines run from 2600 to 2800 R. P. 
M., which is as fast as the average operator can 
handle the work. 

The wearers of overalls and other work gar- 
ments are learning that triple stitched seams last 
longer and look better than those stitched with two 
rows of stitching. 

Overall manufacturers find four distinct ad- 
vantages in the use of triple stitch machines: 

1. They produce a flat seam; center needle 
stitches down the raw edges of the lapped seam and 
prevents bunching of material between rows of 
stitching when garment is washed. 

2. The triple stitch eliminates the twisted leg 
effect and makes the overall hang straight. 

3. It improves the wearing quality of the gar- 
ment. 

4. It gives the manufacturer who uses it an 
effective new sales appeal, an important factor in 
meeting the present keen competition. 

And in addition to these qualities it gives you 
the high speed, uniform Double Locked stitch and 
simple operation characteristic of all Union Speciai 
Machines. 



47 

We give below a partial list of manufacturers of triple stitched 
overalls. 

The largest mail order houses, such as Montgomery Ward & Co., 
Sears, Roebuck & Co., specify triple stitched work garments almost 
exclusively. 

Alexander Bennie Co Nashville, Tenn. 

H. A. Allen Mfg. Co Nashville, Tenn. 

Altoona Overall Co Altoona, Pa. 

American Overall Co Harrison, Ohio 

American Wholesale Corp Baltimore, Mel. 

Buckeye Overall Co Versailles, Ohio 

Peter Blum Mount Healthy, Ohio 

B. & O. Mfg. Co Baltimore, Md. 

Caldwell Overall Co Hillsboro, Ohio 

Central Overall Co Baltimore, Md. 

Charleston Mfg. Co Charleston, W. Va. 

L. C. Chase & Co Watertown, Mass. 

Cohn Goldwater & Co Los Angeles, Calif. 

Cooper, Coats & Case D. C. Co Los Angeles, Calif. 

Cowden Mfg. Co Kansas City, Mo. 

Crane Overall Mfg. Co Jeffersonville, Ind. 

Federation Overall Mfg. Co Davenport, Iowa 

Wm. M. Finck & Co Detroit, Mich. 

M. Fine & Sons New Albany, Ind. 

Forest City Overall Co Rockford, 111. 

Freeland Overall Mfg. Co Freeland, Pa. 

Gem Shirt Co Dayton, Ohio 

Globe Overall Co Cincinnati, Ohio 

Globe-Superior Corp Abingdon, 111. 

Goldstone Bros San Francisco, Calif. 

Gross Bros. Mfg. Co Galesburg, 111. 

Guiterman Bros. Co St. Paul, Minn. 

Knocker Shirt Co Portland, Ind. 

The Iron King Overall Co Baltimore, Md. 

The Ironall Factories Cincinnati, Ohio 

La Crosse Garment Co La Crosse, Wis. 

Lang Mfg. Co St. Paul, Minn. 

Large & Roomy Overall Mfg. Co Cincinnati, Ohio 

H. D. Lee Mercantile Co Kansas City, Mo. 

H. D. Lee Mercantile Co Minneapolis, Minn. 

H. D. Lee Mercantile Co South Bend, Ind. 

H. D. Lee Mercantile Co Trenton, New Jersey 

Levy Overall Mfg. Co Cincinnati, Ohio 

L. Lewin & Sons Chicago, 111. 

Little Bros. Co Knoxville, Tenn. 

Louisville Overall Co Louisville, Ky. 

Martin Bros. Co La Crosse, Wis. 

Lewis Meier Co Indianapolis, Ind. 

Miller Mfg. Co Kansas City, Mo. 

Motor Clothing Co. & Southern Overall Co Baltimore, Md. 

Patrick-Duluth Garment Co Duluth, Minn. 

Reliance Mfg. Co Chicago, III. 

Regal Mfg. Co Knoxville, Tenn. 

Rice Stix D. G. Co St. Louis, Mo. 

Rombo Bros Baltimore, Md. 

Rosenberg Co Winona, Minn. 

Rosenbloom S Baltimore, Md. 

Shimelfarb, H Chicago, 111. 

Simon & Mogilner St. Paul, Minn. 

J. W. Sinnock & Sons Quincy, 111. 

Stevenson Overall Co Portland. Ore. 

Twin City Mfg. Co Minneapolis, Minn. 

United States Overall Co Ft. Worth, Texas 

United States Overall Mfg. Co Cincinnati, Ohio 

Warsaw Overall Co Warsaw, Ind. 

Wheeler & Motter Merc. Co St. Joseph, Mo. 

Western Mfg. Co Minneapolis, Minn. 

Western Union Mfg. Co Kansas City, Mo. 

Wyman-Partridge D. G. Co Minneapolis, Minn. 



48 

Felling bib Seam 

Standard Equipment: UNION SPECIAL Three Needle Machine 
Style 31500B. 

Folder, 23367-9-7-64. 
Presser Foot, 31520C-9. 
Feed Dog, 31505 B- 10. 

Throat Plate, 31524 B-9. 

Thread recommended, 3 cord, 24 glazed in needle, 3 cord, 36 
soft in looper. 

Number of stitches to the inch, 9. 
Average production per hour, 26 dozen. 

Note: This operation can also be accomplished very efficiently 
on a Flat Bed machine, giving the same high grade results. 

Standard Equipment: UNION SPECIAL Machine Style 
1 7100 C. 

Folder, 23331-9-7-64. 
Presser Foot, 17120D-9. 
Feed Dog, 17105 C- 10. 
Throat Plate, 17124C-9. 

Thread recommended, 3 cord, 24 glazed in needle, 3 cord, 36 
soft in looper. 

Number of stitches to the inch, 9. 

Average production per hour, 26 dozen. 



Felling back Seam 



The same equipment is recommended as for Felling Bib Seam. 
Average production per hour, 1 3 dozen. 

Felling In and Out Seams 

Standard Equipment: UNION SPECIAL Machine Style 
31500B. 

Folder, 23367-9-7-64. 
Presser Foot, 31520C-9. 
Feed Dog, 31505 B- 10. 
Throat Plate, 3 1524 B-9. 

Thread recommended, 3 cord, 24 glazed in needle, 3 cord, 36 
soft in looper. 

Number of stitches to the inch, 9. 
Average production per hour, 2 '/4 dozen. 



49 




The above photograph illustrates why Union Specials are universally used 
for sewing the seams of overalls and any other garment that requires strength, 
elasticity and attractiveness. The carpenter shown in the above picture bends 
down in a similar position hundreds of times daily, stretching and straining every 
seam in the overall. But he can put all his thought on his work for there is 
absolutely no danger of ripping. His overalls are sewed on Union Specials. 



50 




51 




52 



List of Operations on Overall Jackets 
with Sleeves Set in Tubular Form 

1 . Piecing sleeves. 

2. Facing sleeves for cuffs. 

3. Felling sleeves in tubular form. 

4. Stitching two large and one small pocket to fronts. 

5. Stitching one inside pocket and one combination pocket 
to front. 

6. Stitching facing to front. 

7. Stitching center back seam and felling two side back seams. 

8. Joining fronts to back at shoulder seam. 

9. Making collar. 

1 0. Sewing on collar and ticket. 

1 1 . Setting in tubular sleeves. 

12. Hemming bottom of body. 

1 3. Tacking. 

1 4. Sewing button-holes. 

1 5. Eyelets for detachable buttons. 

1 6. Attaching buttons. 

1 7. Trimming all loose threads and shaking. 

1 8. Final inspection and folding. 

For operations on overall jackets with sleeves set in flat, instead 
of tubular, see page 62. 






53 




Actual Photograph of a High Grade 
Overall Jacket 

Note the triple stitched seams. 



54 



Description of Operations and Equipment 

for Overall Jackets with Sleeves set in 

Tubular Form 

Piecing Sleeves (Operation No. 1) 

See page 60 for stitching this operation with 3 rows of stitches. 

For sleeves as shown in the figure on page 50, the cuffs con- 
sist of an inside facing. This requires the piecing operation to be 
done prior to the facing and the felling of sleeves in tubular form 
after facing. 

Standard Equipment: UNION SPECIAL Two Needle Machine 
Style 7500 B-5 gauge. 

Note: 4 and 4 J/2 gauge can be had if desired. 
Folder, 600-5-7-64. 

Presser Foot, 198 A-5. 
Feed Dog, 7505. 
Throat Plate, 7524 B-5.^ 

Thread recommended, ? cord, 24 glazed in needle, 3 cord, 36 
soft in looper. 

Number of stitches to the inch, 9. 
Average production per hour, 9 Dozen. 

Note: This operation can also be done very efficiently on a 
Cylinder Machine, giving the same high grade result. 

Standard Equipment: UNION SPECIAL Two Needle Machine 
Style 12100 B-5 gauge. 

Note: 4 and 4J/2 gauge can be had if desired. 

Folder, 601-5-7-64. 

Presser Foot, 12120 E-5. 

Feed Dog, 12105 E-5. 

Throat Plate, 12124 E-5. 

Thread recommended, 3 cord, 24 glazed in needle, 3 cord, 36 
soft in looper. 

Number of stitches to the inch, 9. 

Average production per hour, 9 Dozen. 

Facing Sleeves for Cuffs (Operation No. 2) 

Standard Equipment: Single Needle Shuttle Stitch Machine. 
Number of stitches to the inch, 9. 

Thread recommended, 3 cord, 24 glazed in needle, 3 cord, 24 
soft in bobbin. 

Average production per hour, 2 Dozen. 



55 

Felling Sleeve in Tubular Form (Operation No. 3) 

See page 60 for Triple Stitching this operation 

c , S ^?nn r o f^ ui P ment: UNION SPECIAL Two Needle Machine 
otyle I Z I 00 B-5 gauge. 

Order 4or4|/ 2 gauge if desired. 

Folder, 601-5-7-64. 

PresserFoot, 12120E-5. 

Feed Dog, 12105 E-5. 

Throat Plate, 12124 E-5. 

Thread recommended, 3 cord, 24 glazed in needle, 3 cord, 36 

soft in looper. 

Number of stitches to the inch, 9. 

Average production per hour, 9 Dozen. 




Felling Sleeves on Union Special Class 12100. 

Stitching on One Small and Two Large Patch Pockets 
to Front (Operation No. 4) 

The following helpful hints are recommended as an aid to the 
operator: 

The operation is started on the upper right-hand corner of the 
pocket. The material is turned downwardly and inwardly by the op- 
erator and is guided by her finger. The bar on the edge of the presser 
foot is used as a guide for the edge of the pocket. An experienced 
operator will stitch around the side and bottom of the pocket, includ- 
ing the corners, without stopping. 



56 

Standard Equipment: UNION SPECIAL Machine Style 
8300 Z-4 gauge. 

Presser Foot, 8220 B-4. 

Feed Dog, 7205 A. 

Throat Plate, 8224-4. 

Thread recommended, 3 cord, 24 glazed in needle, 3 cord, 36 
soft in looper. 

Number of stitches to the inch, 9. 

Average production per hour, 2 Yl dozen. 

Stitching One Inside Pockei and One Combination 
Pocket to Front (Operation No. 5) 

Standard Equipment: Single Needle Shuttle Stitch Machine. 
Thread recommended, 3 cord, 24 glazed in needle, 3 cord, 24 
soft in bobbin. 

Number of stitches to the inch, 9. 
Average production per hour, 3 Dozen. 

Stitching Facing to Front (Operation No. 6) 

This operation consists of stitching a strip inside of fronts, one 
for attaching buttons and the other for sewing in button-holes. 

Standard Equipment: UNION SPECIAL Machine Style 
I6500Z-96. 

Folder, 23324 K-96. 

Presser Foot, 16220 B-96. 

Feed Dog, 16505-96. 

Throat Plate, 16224-96. 

Thread recommended, 3 cord, 24 glazed in needle, 3 cord, 36 
soft in looper. 

Number of stitches to the inch, 1 0. 
Average production per hour,' 9 dozen. 

Stitching Center Back Seams and Two Side Back Seams 

(Operation No. 7) 

See page 60 for Triple Stitching this operation. 

The same equipment is recommended as for operation No. 1 . 

Average production per hour, 3 dozen. 

Joining Fronts to Back at Shoulder Seam 
(Operation No. 8) 

See page 6 1 for Triple Stitching this operation. 

This operation is done with the same equipment as given for op- 
eration No. 1 . 

Average production per hour, 1 dozen. 

Making Collar (Operation No. 9) 

Standard Equipment: Single Needle Shuttle Stitch Machine. 
Thread recommended, 3 cord, 24 glazed in needle, 3 cord, 24 
soft in bobbin. 

Number of stitches to the inch, 9. 
Average production per hour, 8 dozen. 



57 

Stitching Collar and Ticket to Body (Operation No. 10) 

Standard Equipment: Single Needle Shuttle Stitch Machine. 
Thread recommended, 3 cord, 24 glazed in needle, 3 cord, 24 
soft in bobbin. 

Number of stitches to the inch, 9. 
Average production per hour, 5 dozen. 

Setting in Tubular Shaped Sleeves (Operation No. 11) 

See page 6 1 for Triple Stitching this operation. 

This operation consists of attaching sleeves to body, after sleeves 
are in tubular form. 

Standard Equipment: UNION SPECIAL Two Needle Machine 
Style 1 1 700C5 gauge. 

Attachment, 2329 I E-5-7-64. 

Presser Foot, 1 1 720F5. 

Feed Dog, 1 1 705B. 

Throat Plate, 1 1 724A5. 

Thread recommended, 3 cord, 24 glazed in needle, 3 cord, 36 
soft in looper. 

Number of stitches to the inch, 9. 

Average production per hour, 2 Yl dozen. 




Union Special Machine Class 11700 used for Setting In Tubular Sleeves 



58 




Outside and Inside View of Sleeve Set in Jacket on Machine 

Class 11700. 



59 

Hemming Bottom of Body (Operation No. 12) 

Standard Equipment: Single Needle Shuttle Stitch Machine. 

Thread recommended, 3 cord, 24 glazed in needle, 3 cord, 24 
soft in bobbin. 

Number of stitches to the inch, 9. 

Average production per hour, 7 dozen. - 

For making a very substantial and attractive hem, with the Dou- 
ble Locked Stitch, we recommend the following: 

Single Needle UNION SPECIAL Machine 1 I 500 G. 

Folder, 23364. 

Presser Foot, 1 1 5 2 OH for % or Yi inch hem. 

Feed Dog, 1 1505 H. 

Throat Plate, 1 1 524 H. 

Thread recommended, 3 cord, 24 glazed in needle, 3 cord, 36 
soft in looper. 

Number of stitches to the inch, 9. 

Average production per hour, 7 Dozen. 

Tacking (Operation No. 13) 

Standard Equipment: Tacking Machine. 
Average production per hour, 8 dozen. 

Sewing Button-Holes (Operation No. 14) 

Standard Equipment: Button-hole Machine. 
Average production per hour, 9 dozen. 

Eyelets for Detachable Buttons (Operation No. 15) 

Standard Equipment: Eyelet Machine. 
Average production per hour, 1 1 dozen. 



Standard Table of Gauges 

No. 1 gauge 3-32 inch. No. AYz gauge 1-4 inch. 

No. 2 gauge 1-8 inch. No. 5 gauge 9-32 inch. 

No. 3 gauge 5-32 inch. No. bYl gauge 3-8 inch. 

No. 4 gauge 3-16 inch. No. 6 gauge 13-32 inch. 

For any gauge not shown in above table the following rule will 
prevail: 

Specify Gauges by 64ths of an inch 

For example: — If it is desired to have 1-2 inch space between 
stitches, the number of the gauge would correspond to the number of 
the 64ths or 32. 

Likewise 3-4 inch width would be 48 gauge. 



60 



Triple Stitched Overall Jackets with 
Sleeves Set in Tubular Form 

We refer the readier to page 46 where the good qualities of 
the Triple Stitched, seam are clearly explained. Obviously, the one 
point of better appearance should be sufficient inducement for the 
manufacturer to produce jackets with triple stitched seams. 

Piecing Sleeves (Operation No. 1) 

Standard Equipment: UNION SPECIAL Three Needle Machine 
Style 1 7100 C. 

Folder, 23331-9-7-64. 

Presser Foot, 1 7120 D-9. 

Feed Dog, 17105 C- 10. 

Throat Plate, 17124 C-9. 

Thread recommended, 3 cord, 24 glazed in needle, 3 cord, 36 
soft in looper. 

Number of stitches to the inch, 9. 

Average production per hour, 9 dozen. 

Note: This operation can also be accomplished very efficiently 
on one of our Side Wheel Cylinder machines. 

Standard Equipment: UNION SPECIAL Three Needle Machine 
Style 31500 B. 

Folder, 23367-9-7-64. 

Presser Foot, 31520 B-9. 

Feed Dog, 31505 B- 10. 

Throat Plate, 31524 B-9. 

Thread recommended, 3 cord, 24 glazed in needle, 3 cord, 36 
soft in looper. 

Number of stitches to the inch, 9. 
Average production per hour, 9 dozen. 

Felling Sleeves in Tubular Form (Operation No. 3) 

Standard Equipment: UNION SPECIAL Three Needle Machine 
Style 31500 B. 

Folder, 23367-9-7-64. 

Presser Foot, 31520 B-9. 

Feed Dog, 31505 B-10. 

Throat Plate, 31524 B-9. 

Thread recommended, 3 cord, 24 glazed in needle, 3 cord, 36 
soft in looper. 

Number of stitches to the inch, 9. 
Average production per hour, 9 dozen. 

Stitching Center Back Seam and Two Side Back Seams 
(Operation No. 7) 

The same equipment is recommended as for operation No. 1 . 
Average production per hour, 3 dozen. 



61 



Joining Fronts to Back (Operation No. 8) 

This operation is done with the same equipment as for operation 



No. 



Average production per hour, 1 dozen. 




Felling Sleeves on 3 Needle Union Special Machine Class 31500. 



Setting in Tubular Sleeves with Three Rows of Stitches 

(Operation No. 11) 

Standard Equipment: UNION SPECIAL Three Needle Machine 
Style 1 9 1 00 A-9. 

Folder, 23291 G-9-7-64. 

Presser Foot, 19120-9. 

Feed Dog, 19105 A- 10. 

Throat Plate, 19124-9. 

Thread recommended, 3 cord, 24 glazed in needle, 3 cord, 24 
soft in looper. 

Number of stitches to the inch, 9. 

Average production per hour, 2 Yi dozen. 



62 




Jacket with Sleeve At- 
tached in Flat Form 



The coat shown above is made in the same manner 
as the tubular sleeved jacket with the exception that the sleeves are 
sewed in flat and closed simultaneously with the side seams in the 
same manner as in felling shirts. 

Due to this difference, the sequence of operations is as follows: 

1 . Piecing sleeves. 

2. Making cuffs. 

3. Sewing cuffs to sleeves. 

4. Stitching two large and one small pocket to front. 

5. Stitching on inside pocket and combination pocket. 

6. Stitching facing to front. 

7. Stitching center back seam. 

8. Joining front and back at shoulder seams. 

9. Making collar. 

1 0. Sewing on collars and ticket. 

1 1 . Sleeving.* 

12. Felling sleeves and side seams.* 

1 3. Hemming bottom of body. 

1 4. Tacking. 

1 5. Sewing button-holes. 

1 6. Eyelets for detachable buttons. 

1 7. Attaching buttons. 

1 8. Trimming all loose threads and shaking. 

19. Final inspection and folding. 

^Operations 1 1 and 1 2 are the only ones that will require any 
description in addition to that already given for the operations for 
tubular sleeve jackets. 



63 

Sleeving (Operation No. 11) 

This operation consists of attaching the sleeve in flat form to the 
jacket in the same way as for shirts. 

The following helpful hints may be of interest to the operator: 
For this operation the sleeve should be held between the second 
finger and the thumb of the left hand, allowing the sleeve to slip or 
slide between them, and keeping the edge of the sleeve even with the 
top of the second finger, and the end of this finger holding the sleeve 
close to the lower scroll of the folder, and pressing down on the sleeve, 
holding it tightly between the finger and the flat side of the folder, 
to slightly retard the sleeve. The body of the garment is held be- 
tween the first and second fingers, permitting the material to slip or 
slide freely through the fingers. This leaves the right hand free to as- 
sist the body of the garment through the arm of the machine. In 
making a flat fell, the material next to the feed should always be re- 
tarded and the ply next to the presser foot permitted to run through 
freely. This will give a smooth and sightly finish. 

Standard Equipment: UNION SPECIAL Two Needle Machine 
Style 7500 B-5. 

Note: 4 and 4 J/2 gauge can be had if desired. 

Folder, 600-5-7-64. 
Presser Foot, 198A-5. 
Feed Dog, 7505. 
Throat Plate, 7524 B-5. 

Thread recommended, 3 cord, 24 glazed in needle, 3 cord, 36 
soft in looper. 

Number of stitches to the inch, 9. 
Average production per hour, 7 J/2 dozen. 

Felling (Operation No. 12) 

This operation is similar to the operation No. 3 for jackets with 
tubular sleeves, (see page 55). In addition to closing the sleeve 
this operation includes closing the sides of the jacket, in the same 
manner as that used in felling shirts, stitching from cuffs to bottom of 
jacket. 

Standard Equipment: UNION SPECIAL Two Needle Machine 
Style 12100 B-5. 

Note: 4 and 4'/2 gauge can be had if desired. 

Folder, 601-5-7-64. 

Presser Foot, 12120E-5. 

Feed Dog, 12105 E-5. 

Throat Plate, 12124 E-5. 

Thread recommended, 3 cord, 24 glazed in needle, 3 cord, 36 
soft in looper. 

Number of stitches to the inch, 9. 

Average production per hour, 5 J/2 dozen. 

Note: The principal seams can be triple stitched in the same 
manner as outlined for jackets with tubular sleeves. See page 60 for 
description. 



64 




65 







66 

List of Operations on Men's Combination 
Work Garment 

1 . Stitching under cuff facing. 

2. Piecing sleeves. 

3. Facing cuffs. 

4. Stitching combination and flap pockets to fronts. 

5. Stitching one inside pocket to front. 

6. Making fly. 

7. Sewing fly button-holes. 

8. Making and closing front swing pockets and stitching box at top 
end of fly, etc. 

9. Joining top and bottom of each side of front. 

1 0. Stitching hip and rule pockets to back of pants parts. 

1 1 . Joining top and bottom of each side of back. 

12. Felling center back seam. 

I 3. Joining fronts and backs at shoulder seams. 

1 4. Sleeving. 

15. Felling sleeves and side seams. 
1 6. Stitching on band. 

1 7. Hemming for button stay and center plait. 

1 8. Making collar. 

19. Stitching on collar. 

20. Felling inside leg seams. 

2 1 . Hemming bottoms. 

22. Sewing button holes. 

23. Tacking. 

24. Attaching buttons. 

25. Trimming loose threads. 

26. Final inspection and folding. 

Note — Some manufacturers prefer to have one operator do sev- 
eral similar operations which can be done on the same machine. For 
example, Operations Nos. 11, 12, 13 and 14 can all be done by the 
same operator. 

Likewise Operations Nos. 1 5 and 20 can be accomplished by the 
same operator, if desired. 



67 




A Modern "Triple Stitched" Combination Garment 



68 

Description of Operations and Equipment 
for Men's Combination Work Garment 

Stitching under Cuff Facing (Operation No. 1) 

See page 72 for Triple Stitching this operation. 

This operation consists of stitching that part of the sleeve seam 
under facing. This permits using a one piece facing and allows the 
facing to cover the stitched seam, making a more comfortable cuff 
to the wearer. 

Standard Equipment: UNION SPECIAL Two Needle Machine 
Style 7500 B-5. A 4 or 4 '/2 gauge machine can be had if desired. 

Folder, 600-5-7-64. 

Presser Foot, 198 A-5. 

Feed Dog, 7505. 

Throat Plate, 7524 B-5. 

Thread recommended, 3 cord 24 glazed in needle, 3 cord 36 
soft in looper. 

Number of stitches to the inch, 9. 

Average production per hour, 20 dozen (about 4 inches of stitch- 
ing). 

Note — This operation can also be done very efficiently on a cyl- 
inder machine, giving the same high grade results. 

Standard Equipment: UNION SPECIAL Two Needle Machine 
Style 12 1 00 B-5. A 4 or 4'/2 gauge machine can be had if desired. 

Folder, 601-5-7-64. 

Presser Foot, 12120 E-5. 

Feed Dog, 12105 E-5. 

Throat Plate, 12124 E-5. 

Thread recommended, 3 cord 24 glazed in needle, 3 cord 36 
soft in looper. 

Number of stitches to the inch, 9. 

Average production per hour, 20 dozen. 

Piecing Sleeves (Operation No. 2) 

See page 73 for Triple Stitching this operation. 

This operation consists of stitching the sleeve parts together, start- 
ing at the placket. 

The same equipment as recommended for operation No. 1 should 
be used. 

Average production per hour, 9 dozen. 

Facing Sleeves for Cuffs (Operation No. 3) 

This operation consists of stitching a facing inside the sleeve for 
cufr. 

Standard Equipment: Shuttle Stitch Machine. 

Thread recommended, 3 cord 24 glazed in needle, 3 cord 24 
soft in bobbin. 

Number of stitches to the inch, 9. 

Average production per hour, 2 '/4 dozen. 



69 

Stitching Combination and Flap Pockets to Fronts 
(Operation No. 4) 

Standard Equipment: Single Needle Shuttle Stitch Machine. 
Thread recommended, 3 cord 24 glazed in needle, 3 cord 24 
soft in bobbin. 

Number of stitches to the inch, 9. 
Average production per hour, ^4 dozen. 

Stitching One Inside Pocket to Front (Operation No. 5) 

The same equipment as used for Operation No. 4 is recom- 
mended. 

Average production per hour, 6 dozen. 

Making Fly (Operation No. 6) 

Standard Equipment: UNION SPECIAL Machine Style 6500 E. 
Folder, 23182 D. 
Presser Foot, 642 7 B. 
Feed Dog, 9 705. 
Throat Plate, 9724 B. 

Thread recommended, 3 cord 30 glazed in needle, 3 cord 36 
soft in looper. 

Number of stitches to the inch, 9. 
Average production per hour, 40 dozen. 

Sewing Fly Button-Holes (Operation No. 7) 

Standard Equipment: Button-hole Machine. 

Making and Closing Front Swing Pockets, Joining Parts 
to Fly, Stitching Box at Top End of Fly (Operation No. 8) 

Standard Equipment: Shuttle Stitch Machine. 

Thread recommended, 3 cord 24 glazed in needle, 3 cord 24 
soft in bobbin. 

Number of stitches to the inch, 9. 

Average production per hour, 1 dozen. 

Note — In case it is desired to finish pockets with a serged edge 
as shown on page 22 this is done in a separate operation. 

Standard Equipment: UNION SPECIAL Machine Style 15400 Q. 
Presser Foot, 1 542 7 G. 
Feed Dog, 15405 W. 
Throat Plate, 1 5424 J. 

Thread recommended, 3 cord 60 silk finish in needle, 3 cord 50 
soft in looper. 

Number of stitches to the inch, 1 1 . 
Average production per hour, 1 4 dozen. 



70 

Joining Top to Bottom of Each Side of Fronts 
(Operation No. 9) 

This requires only a single row of stitches as the strain is not so 
great as that in the back of the garment. 

Standard Equipment: .UNION SPECIAL Single Needle Machine 
Style 6500 B. 

Cloth Plate Gauge 24. 

Presser Foot, 6520 

Feed Dog, 9205 E. 

Throat Plate, 9224 E. 

Thread recommended, 3 cord 24 glazed in needle, 3 cord 36 
soft in looper. 

Number of stitches to the inch, 9. 

Average production per hour, 1 dozen. 

Stitching Hip and Rule Pockets to Pants Parts Including 
Tool Hanger (Operation No. 10) 

The following helpful hints are recommended as an aid to the 
operator: 

The operation is started on the upper right hand corner of the 
pocket. The material is turned downwardly and inwardly by the op- 
erator and is guided by her finger. The bar on the edge of the presser 
foot is used as a guide for the edge of the pocket. An experienced 
operator will stitch around the side and bottom of the pocket, includ- 
ing corner, without stopping. 

Standard Equipment: UNION SPECIAL Machine Style 
8300 Z-4. 

Presser Foot, 8220 B-4. 
Feed Dog, 7205 A. 
Throat Plate, 8224-4. 

Thread recommended, 3 cord 24 glazed in needle, 3 cord 36 
soft in looper. 

Number of stitches to the inch, 9. 
Average production per hour, 6 dozen. 

Joining Tops to Bottoms of Each Side of Backs 

(Operation No. 11) 

This consists of seaming the back of pants to the back of jacket. 
This stitching is noi shown on figure, see page 65 as it is covered by 
band, which is stitched on later. 

Note Operations 11, 12, 13 and 14 can all be done by one op- 
erator, if desired. 

The same equipment as specified for Operation No. 1 is recom- 
mended. 

Average production per hour, 1 2 dozen. 

Felling Center Back Seam (Operation No. 12) 

This operation consists of joining the sides of the back together 
and includes a run from the neck to the crotch. 

The same equipment as specified for Operation No. 1 is recom- 
mended. 

Average production per hour, 8 dozen. 



71 

Joining Fronts and Backs at Shoulder Seams 
(Operation No. 13) 

See page 73 for Triple Stitching this operation. 

The same equipment as specified for Operation No. 1 is recom- 
mended. 

Average production per hour, 20 dozen. 

Sleeving (Operation No. 14) 

This operation consists of attaching the sleeves to the body of 
the garment in flat form, the same as sleeving shirts. 

The same equipment as specified for Operation No. 1 is recom- 
mended. 

Average production per hour, 3 dozen. 

Felling Sleeves and Side Seams (Operation No. 15) 

See page 73 for Triple Stitching this operation. 

This operation consists of seaming the sleeve into tubular form 
and continuing the closing of the side seams of the garment running 
all the way down to the bottom of legs. 

Standard Equipment: UNION SPECIAL Two Needle Machine 
Style 12100 B-5. 

Note 4 or 4 J/2 gauge can also be had if desired. 

Folder, 601-5. 

Presser Foot, 12120 E-5. 

Feed Dog, 12105 E-5. 

Throat Plate, 12124 E-5. 

Thread recommended, 3 cord 24 glazed in needle, 3 cord 36 
soft in looper. 

Number of stitches to the inch, 9. 

Average production per hour, 3 J/2 dozen. 

Stitching on Band (Operation 16) 

This operation consists of stitching a strip or band to the body of 
the combination garment over the joint of top and bottom. This us- 
ually is done on the outside of garment as it covers the joining stitches 
and makes a very neat belt effect. 

Standard Equipment: UNION SPECIAL Banding Machine Style 
16500 Z-80, equipped with pulling mechanism. 

Folder, 23295 E-80. 
Presser Foot, 16220 B-80. 
Feed Dog, 16505-88. 

Throat Plate, 16224-80. 

Thread recommended, 3 cord 24 glazed in needle, 3 cord 36 soft 
in looper. 

Number of stitches to the inch, 9. 
Average production per hour, 8 dozen. 

Hemming for Button Stay and Center Plait 
(Operation No. 17) 

This operation consists of turning inwardly the edges at center of 
garment and stitching with a single row of stitches as shown in the ac- 
companying seam construction. 

Standard Equipment: Single Needle Shuttle Stitch Machine. 

Average production per hour, 1 3 dozen. 



72 

Making Collar (Operation No. 18) 

Standard Equipment: Single Needle Shuttle Stitch Machine. 
Thread recommended, 3 cord 24 glazed in needle, 3 cord 24 
soft in bobbin. 

Number of stitches to the inch, 9. 
Average production per hour, 4 dozen. 

Stitching on Collar (Operation No. 19) 

Standard Equipment: Single Needle Shuttle Stitch Machine. 
Thread recommended, 3 cord 24 glazed in needle, 3 cord 24 
soft in bobbin. fe 

Number of stitches to the inch, 9. 
Average production per hour, 1 dozen. 

Felling Inside Leg Seam (Operation No. 20) 

See page 73 for Triple Stitching this operation. 

This operation consists of stitching the inside seam of legs start- 
ing at the bottom of one and running up across crotch and down the 
other leg to bottom. 

Standard Equipment: UNION SPECIAL Two Needle Machine 
Style 12100 B-5. 

The same equipment as that specified for operation No. 1 5 is rec- 
ommended. 

Average production per hour, 5 dozen. 

Hemming Bottoms (Operation No. 21) 

Standard Equipment: UNION SPECIAL Single Needle Machine, 
Style 1 1500G. 

Presser Foot, 1 1520 H for Y% or Yl inch hem. 

Feed Dog, I 1505 H. 

Throat Plate, 1 1 524 H. 

Attachment 23364. 

Thread recommended, 3 cord 24 glazed in needle, 3 cord 36 soft 
in looper. 

Number of stitches to the inch, 9. 

Average production per hour, 9 dozen. 

Triple Stitched Combination Work Garments 

We refer the reader to page 46 where the good qualities of the 
Triple Stitched seam are clearly explained. Obviously the one point 
of better appearance should be sufficient inducement for the manufac- 
turer to produce combination garments with triple stitched seams. 

Stitch Under Cnff Facings (Operation No. 1) 

Standard Equipment: UNION SPECIAL Three Needle Machine 
Style 1 7100 C. 

Folder, 23331-9-7-64. 

Presser Foot, 17120 B-9. 
Feed Dog, 1 7105 C- 10. 
Throat Plate, 17124C-9. 



73 

Thread recommended, 3 cord 24 glazed in needle, 3 cord 36 soft 
in looper. 

Number of stitches to the inch, 9. 

Average production per hour, 45 dozen. 

Note This operation can also be accomplished very efficiently 

on one of our Side Wheel Cylinder Machines. 

Standard Equipment: UNION SPECIAL Three Needle Machine, 
Style 31500B. 

Folder, 23367-9-7-64. 

Presser Foot, 31520C-9. 

Feed Dog, 31505 B-10. 

Throat Plate. 31524 B-9. 

Thread recommended, 3 cord 24 glazed in needle, 3 cord 36 soft 
in looper. 

Number of stitches to the inch. 9 
Average production per hour, 45 dozen. 

Piecing Sleeves (Operation No. 2) 

Use the same equipment as that specified for Operation No. 1 
Average production per hour, 9 dozen. 

Joining Tops to Bottoms of Each Side of Backs 
( Operation No. 1 1 ) 

Note Operations Nos. 11, 12, 13 and 1 4 can all be done by one 

operator if desired. 

Use same equipment as specified for Operation No. 1 . 
Average production per hour, 1 2 dozen. 

Felling Center Back Seams (Operation No. 12) 

Use same equipment as specified tor Operation No. 1 . 
Average production per hour, 8 dozen. 

Joining Fronts and Backs at Shonlder Seams 
(Operation No. 13) 

Use same equipment as specified for Operation No. 1 . 
Average production per hour, 25 dozen. 

Sleeving (Operation No. 14) 

Use same equipment as specified for Operation No. 1 . 
Average production per hour, 2 Yl dozen. 

Felling Sleeves and Side Seams (Operation No. 15) 

Standard Equipment: UNION SPECIAL Three Needle Machine, 

Style 31 500 B. 

Folder, 23367-9-7-64. 

Presser Foot, 31520C-9. 

Feed Dog, 31505 B-10. 
Throat Plate, 31524 B-9. 

Thread recommended, 3 cord 24 glazed in needle, 3 cord 36 soft 
in looper. 

Number of stitches to the inch, 9. 
Average production per hour, 3'/2 dozen. 

Felling Inside Leg Seam (Operation No. 20) 

Use the same equipment as specified for Operation No. 15. 
Average production per hour, 5 dozen. 



74 




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76 

Description of Operations and Equipment For 
Children's Combination Overall and Jacket 

Stitching Red Binding To Pockets (Operation No. 1) 

This operation consists of stitching the strip or binding to tops of 
pocket parts, including all pockets in a bundle, without stopping. The 
finding is trimmed while it is being stitched. 

Standard Equipment: UNION SPECIAL Single Needle Machine 
Class 15800 A. 

Binder, 23322 N-%. Feed Dog, 15805 F. 

Presser Foot, 1 5820 F. Throat Plate, 1 5824 C. 

Thread recommended, 3 cord 24 glazed in needle, 3 cord 36 soft 
in looper. 

Number of stitches to the inch, 1 0. 

Average production per hour, 45 dozen. 

Piecing Sleeves (Operation No. 2) 

This operation consists of stitching a piece to sleeves for econom- 
ical reasons. 

Standard Equipment: UNION SPECIAL Two Needle Machine, 
Style 7500 B-4. 

Folder, 600-4-3-32. Feed Dog, 7405 B-4. 

Presser Foot, 198 A-4. Throat Plate, 7524 B-4. 

Thread recommended, 3 cord 24 glazed in needle, 3 cord 36 soft 
in looper. 

Number of stitches to the inch, 1 0. 

Average production per hour, 4 dozen. 




STYLE 15800 A. 



77 
Stitching Red Binding To Sleeves (Operation No. 3 ! 

See Operation No. I for equipment, etc. 
Average production per hour, 25 dozen. 

Stitching Pocket To Front (Operation No. 4) 

Standard Equipment: Single Needle Shuttle Stitch Machine. 
Number of stitches to the inch, 12. 
Thread recommended, 3 cord, 60. 
Average production per hour, 1 2 Yi dozen. 

Stitching Upper Center Front Seam (Operation No. 5) 

This operation consists of joining the two halves of the upper 
front. 

See Operation No. 2 for equipment. 
Average production per hour, 30 dozen. 

Stitching Lower Center Front Seam (Operation No. 6) 

See Operation No. 2 for equipment. 
Average production per hour, 30 dozen. 

Stitching On Red Front Band (Operation No. 7) 

This operation consists of folding and stitching the red galatea 
trimming or band to the front of garment, simultaneously joining the 
upper and lower part of fronts. 

Standard Equipment: UNION SPECIAL Two Needle Machine, 
Style 16500 Z-80, equipped with pulling mechanism. 

Folder, 23328 H-80. 

Presser Foot, 16220 B-80. 

Feed Dog, 16505-80. 

Throat Plate, 16224-80. 

Thread recommended, 3 cord 24 glazed in needle, 3 cord 36 soft 
in looper. 

Number of stitches to the inch, 1 0. 

Average production per hour, 1 5 dozen. 

Stitching Center Plait To Back (Operation No. 8) 

This operation consists of folding and stitching a strip to back. 
Standard Equipment: UNION SPECIAL Two Needle Machine. 
Style 16500 Z-80. 

Folder, 23328 H-80. 

Presser Foot, 16132-80. 

Feed Dog, 16505-80. 
Throat Plate, 16224-80. 

Thread recommended, 3 cord 24 glazed in needle, 3 cord 36 soft 
in looper. 

Number of stitches to the inch, 1 0. 
Average production per hour, 1 8 dozen. 



78 




UNION SPECIAL MACHINE 

CLASS 16500. 
"READY FOR BANDING" 



79 
Stitching Center Button Stay To Back (Operation No. 9) 

Standard Equipment: UNION SPECIAL Single Needle Machine 
Style 6500 B. 

Presser Foot, 6520. 

Feed Dog, 9205 E. 

Throat Plate, 9224 E. 

Thread recommended, 3 cord 24 glazed in needle, 3 cord 36 soft 
in looper. 

Number of stitches to the inch, 1 0. 

Average production per hour, 1 8 dozen. 

Joining Fronts and Backs (Operation No. 10) 

See Operation No. 2 for equipment. 
Average production per hour, 25 dozen. ■ 

Sleeving (Operation No. 11) 

This operation consists of joining the sleeves to the body of gar- 
ment. 

See Operation No. 2 for equipment. 
Average production per hour, 6 dozen. 

Stitching Lower Center Back Seam Operation No. 12) 

See Operation Wo. 2 for equipment. 
Average production per hour, 30 dozen. 

Stitching On Red Back Band (Operation No. 13) 

This operation consists of stitching and folding red galatea band 
trimming to the outside, band of denim to the inside, and edge of gar- 
ment between. 

Standard Equipment: UNION SPECIAL Two Needle Machine 
Style 16500 Z-80, equipped with pulling mechanism. 

Folder, 23295 E-80. 

Upper Folder, 23295 E-80. 

Lower Folder, 23293 D-80. 

Presser Foot, 16132-80. 

Feed Dog, 16205-88. 

Throat Plate, 16224-80. 

Thread recommended, 3 cord 24 glazed in needle, 3 cord 36 soft 
in looper. 

Number of stitches to the inch, 1 0. 

Average production per hour, 1 5 dozen. 

Hemming Sides Of Backs (Operation No. 14) 

Standard Equipment: Single Needle Shuttle Stitch Machine. 
Number of stitches to the inch, 10. 
Average production per hour, 25 dozen. 



80 

Hemming Sides Of Fronts (Operation No. 15) 

Standard Equipment: Single Needle Shuttle Stitch Machine. 
Average production per hour, 25 dozen. 

Felling From Cuff To Waist Line (Operation No. 16) 

This operation consists of joining the sleeve in tubular form and 
simultaneously joining sides of coat portion of garment. 

Standard Equipment: UNION SPECIAL Two Needle Machine 
Style 12100 B-4. 

Folder, 601-4- 7-64. 

Presser Foot, 12120 E-4. 

Feed Dog, 12105 E-4. 

Throat Plate, 12124 E-4. 

Thread recommended, 3 cord 24 glazed in needle, 3 cord 36 soft 
in looper. 

Number of stitches to the inch, 1 0. 

Average production per hour, 8 dozen. 

Felling In And Out Seam (Operation No. 17) 

See Operation No. 1 6 for equipment. 
Average production per hour, 3 dozen. 

Hemming Bottoms (Operation No. 18) 

Standard Equipment: UNION SPECIAL Single Needle Machine 
Style 1 1 500 G, making a narrow, sightly hem. 

Presser Foot, 1 1520 H for 3 /% or x /i inch hem. 

Feed Dog, 11505 H. 

Throat Plate, 1 1 524 H. 

Thread recommended, 3 cord 24 glazed in needle, 3 cord 36 soft 
in looper. 

Number of stitches to the inch, 1 0. 

Average production per hour, 1 2 dozen. 

Stitching Red Binding To Neck (Operation No. 19) 

See Operation No. 1 for equipment. 
Average production per hour, 1 8 dozen. 

Sewing Button-Holes (Operation No. 20) 

Standard Equipment: Button-hole Machine. 
Average production per hour, 625 holes. 

Attaching Buttons (Operation No. 21) 

Standard Equipment: Button Machine. 
Average production per hour, 870 Buttons. 

Tacking (Operation No. 22) 

Standard Equipment: Tacking Machine. 
Average production per hour, 500 tacks. 



81 

List of Operations On Khaki Trousers 

1. Making fly. 

2. Button-holes in fly. 

3. Making and attaching 2 swing pockets, 1 back pocket, and 1 
watch pocket and stitching two sides of front together at crotch. 

4. Seaming and welting outside seams. 

5. Seaming seat seams. 

6. Seaming Inside Seams. 

7. Hemming for cuffs. 

8. Making belt loops. 

9. Attaching inside band to top of trousers. 

Description of Operations and Equipment For 
Making Khaki Trousers 

Making Fly (Operation No. 1) 

Standard Equipment: UNION SPECIAL Machine Style 6500 E. 
Folder, 23182 D. 
Presser Foot, 642 7 B. 
Feed Dog, 9705. 
Throat Plate, 9724 B. 

Thread Recommended, 3 cord 40 soft finish in needle, 3 cord 50 
soft in looper. 

Number of stitches to the inch, 12. 
Average production per hour, 40 dozen. 

Fly Button-Holes (Operation No. 2) 

Standard Equipment: Button-hole machine. 
Average production per hour, 1 5 dozen. 

Making and Attaching Two Swing Pockets, One Back 
Pocket, and One Watch Pocket, Stitching Two Sides 
of Fronts Together At Crotch (Operation No. 3) 

Standard Equipment: Single Needle Shuttle Stitch Machine. 

Average production per hour, 24 dozen. 

Note — In case it is desired to finish pockets in the manner shown 
on page 22, this is done in a separate operation. 

Standard Equipment: UNION SPECIAL Machine Style 1 5400 Q. 

Presser Foot, 1 542 7 G. 

Feed Dog, 15405 W. 

Throat Plate, 1 5424 J. 

Thread Recommended, 3 cord 60 silk finish in needle, 2 cord 50 
soft finish in looper. 

Number of stitches to the inch, 1 3. 

Average production per hour, 9 dozen. 
The above equipment can also be used for serging flies if this is 
desired. 



82 

Seaming and Welting Outer Seams (Operation No. 4) 

This operation consists of seaming and simultaneously welting the 
outside seams and finishing pockets, etc. 

Standard Equipment: UNION SPECIAL Single Needle Machine 
Style 6500 C. 

Folder, 23184. 

Throat Plate, K 33866. 

Presser Foot, K 33868 

Feed Dog, K 33867. 

Thread Recommended, 3 cord 40 soft in needle, 3 cord 50 soft 
in looper. 

Number of stitches to the inch, 1 3. 
Average production per hour, 2 dozen. 

Seaming Seat Seams (Operation No. 5) 

Standard Equipment: UNION SPECIAL Machine Style 6500 B. 
Presser Foot, 6520. 
Feed Dog, 9205 E. 
Throat Plate, 9224 E. 

Thread recommended, 3 cord 40 soft in needles, 3 cord, 50 soft 
in looper. 

Number of stitches to inch, 12. 
Average production per hour, 1 6 dozen. 

Seaming Inside Seams (Operation No. 6) 

See Operation No. 5 for equipment. 
Average production per hour, 1 dozen. 

Hemming for Cuffs (Operation No. 7) 

Standard Equipment: UNION SPECIAL Machine Style 1 1 500 Z. 
No attachments. Other adjusting parts same as 1 1500 G. 
Thread recommended, 3 cord 40 soft in the needle, 3 cord 50 
soft in the looper. 

Average production per hour, 50 dozen. 
Number of stitches to the inch, 12. 



83 
Making Belt Loops (Operation No. 8) 

Standard Equipment: UNION SPECIAL Machine Style 6900 H. 

This machine will accommodate belt loops cut in short lengths. 
Furnished in 1 2 and 1 6 gauges. 

Thread recommended, 3 cord 40 soft in the needle. 3 cord 50 
soft in the looper. 

Number of stitches to the inch, 1 3. 

Average production per hour, 2 I dozen. 

Attaching Inside Band To The Top Of Trousers, Simul- 
taneously Attaching Top End Of Loop (Operation 

No. 9) 



TROUSERS- 



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WNVAS • 



-CURTAIN 



.BEUT LOOP 



Standard Equipment: UNION SPECIAL Two Needle Machine 
Style 16500Z-80 gauge. Equipped with pulling mechanism. 

Folder, K-2 7992. 

Presser Foot, 16220 B-80. 

Feed Dog, 16505-80. 
Throat Plate, 16224-80. 

Thread Recommended, 3 cord, 40 soft in the needle, 3 cord, 50 
soft in the looper. 

Number of stitches to the inch, 12. 

Average production per hour, 33 dozen. 

Standard Table of Gauges 

No. 1 gauge 3-32 inch. No. 4 Yl gauge Y* inch. 

No. 2 gauge 1-8 inch. No. 5 gauge 9-32 inch. 

No. 3 gauge 5-32 inch. No. 5 Yl gauge 3-8 inch. 

No. 4 gauge 3-16 inch. No. 6 gauge 1 3-32 inch. 

For any gauge not shown in above table the following rule will 
prevail: 

Specify Gauges by 64ths of an inch 

For example: — If it is desired to have '/2-inch space between 
stitches, the number of the gauge would correspond to the number of 
the 64ths or 32. 

Likewise 24-inch width would be 48 gauge. 



84 



Comparative Test of Stitches and Seams 

EXTRACT FROM TECHNOLOGIC PAPER OF THE UNITED 

STATES GOVERNMENT BUREAU OF STANDARDS, 

NO. 96, ISSUED JUNE 25, 1917. 

Tensile Strength of Seams 

Test specimens 1 inch wide, 3 inches between jaws of testing ma- 
chines. 

12-ounce Wool Uniform Cloth 

One Stitching , . strength 

Stitch Employed and Size of Seam Thread Cut at ■ Cutting of 

Threads Used Tests Center of Stitching Thread 

Specimen ** 

Shuttle Stitch Pounds Pounds Per Cent 

No. 36 upper thread, No. 36 

under thread 1 1.2 3.5 68.7 

Double-Locked Stitch: 

No. 36 upper thread, No. 36 

under thread 23.7 23.7 None 

No. 36 upper thread, No. 70 Practically 

under thread 23.8 22.1 None 

No. 36 upper thread, No. 80 Practically 

under thread 24.2 22.8 None 



—"IT IS INTERESTING TO NOTE THAT EVEN THOUGH 
THE DOUBLE LOCKED SEAM WAS CUT OR BROKEN, IT 
WAS STILL STRONGER THAN THE UNCUT SEAM OF THE 
SHUTTLE STITCH." (Page 4, Paper 96.) U. S. Bur. of Stand. 



Remember: The words "Double-Locked Stitch" and Union 
Special are synonymous. 



The Double Locked Stitch 

Daily experience emphasizes the fact that the question of stitch 
is one of vital importance both to the manufacturer and the consumer. 
There are three distinct types of stitches: namely, ( 1 ) the chain stitch, 
(2) the shuttle stitch, (3) the Double Locked stitch, or the Union 
Special stitch. 

Upon examining the chain stitch we find it is formed of a single 
thread, one stitch being looped into another consecutively, the name 
being derived from the appearance of the under side of the stitch 
which resembles the links of a chain. This stitch may be used where 
there is little or no wear on the stitch. The weakness, as can readily 
be seen, lies in the fact that if a stitch is broken or the machine skips 
a stitch, all the stitches preceding it will unlock, one after another, and 
the seam with little or no strain applied to it, will come apart. This 
stitch is used to a small extent as compared with the other types. 



85 




Shuttle Stitch 

The shuttle stitch shown above is sometimes called the plain stitch 
and often spoken of as the lock stitch, though erroneously, because 
it in no way locks, for if one stitch is cut, the seam is weakened as the 
threads will easily ravel back at least a short distance, causing the 
seam to open. Hence, this stitch will be spoken of as the shuttle stitch, 
it being the stitch formed exclusively by means of employing a shuttle 
and bobbin. 

In examining the formation of the shuttle stitch we find it is a 
two-thread stitch composed of an upper thread called the needle 
thread and an under thread called the bobbin thread, the essential 
features of construction being that the bobbin thread is carried entirely 
through the extended loop of the needle thread thus placing or lapping 
the threads, one over the other, causing the two threads to act directiy 
one against the other. 




Double Locked Stitch 

In the DOUBLE LOCKED stitch, or UNION SPECIAL stitch 
shown above, we note an upper thread called the needle thread and 



86 

an under thread called the looper thread. The formation of the stitch 
is accomplished by the looper thread looping once DOUBLY through 
the needle thread loop and once around it. In this manner, the looper 
thread engages the needle thread TWICE every stitch. This peculiar 
formation prevents a slipping, loosening, or chafing of one thread 
against the other and not only in name, but in FACT, locks the stitch 
so that if one stitch is cut, there will be no raveling back or opening 
of the seam, and no weakening of it. This was conclusively proved in 
tests carried out by the United States Government. See page 84. 

Due to the fact that a shuttle is employed in making the shuttle 
stitch, the needle thread must pass through the eye of the needle many 
times in every inch of stitching while in the machines producing the 
Double Locked Stitch, a reciprocating eye pointed finger or LOOPER 
is employed, which necessitates the passage of the thread but once 
through the eye of the needle. Thus the thread is laid in the fabric 
without any impairment. This is impossible where a bobbin is used 
as the thread must pull through the needle several times before enter- 
ing the fabric. After the thread is embedded in the fabric in the case 
of the shuttle stitch, the strength of the seam must necessarily be that 
of the weaker thread minus the weakening caused by the seesaw ac- 
tion of the thread and chafing due to the tendency of one thread to 
sever the other. 

In the Double Locked Stitch the double engagement of threads 
at the point of joining obviates the direct action of one thread against 
the other when a strain is applied, thus the Double Locked Stitch has 
two distinct advantages over the shuttle stitch as regards the tensile 
strength (pulling strength) of the thread in that there is no chafing 
due to the thread being drawn several times through the needle and 
no chafing due to one thread acting directly on the other when a strain 
is applied. 

As to the consumption of thread, while a shuttle machine may 
use less thread to a yard of stitching, yet it is a well recognized prin- 
ciple that the greater the amount of thread in the formation of a stitch, 
the greater the elasticity. Again, the Double Locked Stitch uses an 
under thread from two to three sizes smaller than the needle thread 
which as far as cost is concerned, compensates for the greater amount 
of thread used. Further, with the shuttle stitch there is experienced 
a loss of thread when every bobbin runs out and in rewinding bobbins 
oftentimes they are wound defectively and the operator must cut the 
thread from them, thus losing all the thread on that bobbin, whereas 
in the Double Locked Stitch machines, the thread is drawn directly 
from the spools or cones. When everything is considered, the greater 
amount of thread used in the formation of the Double Locked Stitch 
is more than compensated for by the use of a smaller under thread 
and elimination of all waste which is incident to the use of bobbins. 

When the fact is taken into consideration that a bobbin contains 
but a very small amount of thread and must be refilled many times 
during the day, it will be readily appreciated that there is immense 
saving in the use of Union Special Machines by taking the thread di- 
rectly from the spools or cones and eliminating all the time consumed 
in handling the bobbins. 



87 

Another source of loss to the manufacturer is through seconds. 
If an operator makes a mistake or if say, the folder becomes displaced 
and leaves a raw edge and it is necessary to open the seam in case a 
shuttle stitch is used, at least every third thread must be cut and the 
pieces of thread removed from the fabric, whereas if a machine mak- 
ing the Double Locked stitch were employed, the operator has merely 
to unlock the stitch at one end, an extremely simple operation, and 
then draw the threads from the fabric, thus eliminating any possible 
chance of injuring the goods as is the case with the shuttle stitch. The 
question might properly arise in one's mind that if the stitch can be 
unlocked and easily raveled, will it not do so of its own accord when 
a stitch is broken. The answer is emphatically, NO! The reason is 
that due to the formation of the stitch there is no possibility of the 
stitch becoming unlocked, whether broken or not. In other words, 
an outside agency must unlock the stitch thus eliminating all possible 
chance of the stitch becoming opened and then raveling due to wear, 
washing, cutting or breaking. To any statement to the effect that the 
ability to unravel the Union Special stitch when needed, is a detri- 
ment, we answer that our stitch might be likened to the combination 
of a safe — it can only be opened if you know the combination. 

Thus we find that the Double Locked stitch has many advan- 
tages over the shuttle stitch, namely, there is no chafing of one thread 
by the other and no chafing of one thread against the other after be- 
ing applied to the fabric. If a stitch is broken there is no resultant 
opening of the seam as in the case of the shuttle stitch, the seam is of 
greater elasticity and responds to strain without breaking. Damage 
to goods likely to result from ripping out the stitch is entirely elim- 
inated by the use of the Double Locked stitch. Cost of production 
is reduced because the thread is taken directly from the spools or 
cones, eliminating all loss of operator's time in handling bobbins. As 
to comparative strength of the two seams, the test on page 84 made 
by the United States Government speaks for itself. On June 24, 1917, 
the Bureau of Standards of the U. S. Department of Commerce, issued 
technologic paper No. 96 in which is set forth the relative merits of 
the shuttle stitch and the Double Locked stitch, stating, "Tests made 
with a variety of fabrics, thread sizes, and types of test specimens have 
shown that seams made with the Double Locked stitch are stronger 
and are less weakened by thread breaks than seams made with the 
shuttle stitch." 

Everything considered there can be no doubt that the Double 
Locked stitch is the ideal stitch to be employed in the manufacture of 
shirts whether high grade silk shirts or work shirts, for in silk shirts 
elasticity is desired, and in work shirts great strength is needed. 



88 




*#•'« ' 6 e 



* * 



<< 



•.••• 



Home of Union Special Machine Co. 

400 N. Franklin St., 

Chicago, U. S. A. 



When in Chicago, make it a point to visit our Factory and Display Room, 
located close to the center of town. 

By using the key to Railroad Stations and Prominent Hotels given on oppo- 
site page, you can estimate the distance any of these are from our factory. For 
example, the Hotel LaSalle (A) at LaSalle and Madison Sts., is only Yl mile from 
our front door. 

RAILROAD STATIONS 1. Chicago & North Western; 2. Union Station; 

3. Grand Central; 4. LaSalle St. Station; 5. Polk St. Station; 6. Illinois Central; 
7. Graham & Morton Steamers; 8. Goodrich Steamers. 

HOTELS — A. La Salle; B. Sherman; C. Fort Dearborn; D. Auditorium; E. 
Congress; F. Blackstone; G. Plaza; H. Drake; I. Virginia; J. Randolph; K. Mor- 
rison; L. Palmer House. 

X. New Field Museum. 



89 



MAP SHOWING LOCATION OF UNION SPECIAL MACHINE 

COMPANY'S MAIN OFFICE, FACTORY AND 

DISPLAY ROOMS 

"Six Minute's Walk from the Loop." 



N 



LAKt 
M I c H i q AIN . 




90 



WATCH YOUR STITCH! 

See that it is "Double Locked." 

See that the proper threads are used. 

Use a small thread in the looper. 

A small looper thread makes the strongest 

seam. 
A small looper thread makes an attractive 

seam. 
A small looper thread cuts your cost figures. 
In a Union Special, there are no bobbins to 

wind, 

Union Special Machines are Quality 
Machines. 





















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